L.A.'s Top Restaurants of 2009

235 N Canon Dr, Beverly Hills, CA 90210 (map)

In the universe of big-name chefs, Thomas Keller reigns supreme. So it was no small news when the man behind French Laundry finally brought Bouchon, his other beloved Napa Valley dining destination, to Beverly Hills. The bigger, more glamorous version of the original is exactly what you want when in the mood for impeccable American fare with a French flair. (And some celeb-spotting.) The staff is attentive but not obsequious, the space is bustling yet romantic and the food, well ... it's number one on our list for a reason.

6611 Hollywood Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90028 (map)

In October 2009, nightlife's big man on campus (no, not Nazarian--the other one) David Judaken made his first foray into food ... and it has proven to be a surprising success. While the stunning space has all the bells and whistles L.A.'s sceney and celeb crowd have come to expect, the menu is serious. And seriously good. From the daily-flown-in Hawaiian walu to beautifully presented scallops on the half shell, the menu, in the capable hands of chef Keven Allan Lee, is inspired and delicious. And we haven't even mentioned the croissant bread pudding. (It's heaven in a bowl.)

1050 South Flower Street #102, Los Angeles, CA 90015 (map)

What can be said about chef John Rivera Sedlar that hasn't already been said this year? On the list of virtually every "best of" list since the day it opened at the very beginning of 2009, this uber-sophisticated yet laidback ode to Pan-Latin cuisine is inarguably part of Downtown L.A.'s long-awaited comeback--both gastronomically and socially. The airport lounge-like bar serves up the best cocktails (from a beef jerky-with-red-pepper Barbacoa to the mezcal-with-crushed-cricket-rim Donaji) while the kitchen satisfies both the palate and the eye with literal flower tortillas and an array of "spice-ology" dishes. Don't ask. Just go. Now.

700 S. Grand Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90017 (map)

Much like the lofts that are popping up all over the Downtown L.A. landscape, this expansive and unpartitioned Italian commissary and gourmet market transports you back to the future when this part of town is once again thriving. The enormous exhibition kitchen cranks out everything from pizza, pasta and salads to parchment-wrapped salmon to the already legendary portobello fries. And don't forget the bakery/shop, which opens every day at 6:30am. Splendid.

1700 Silver Lake Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90026 (map)

One of the Eastside's brightest spots this year, Reservoir is chef Gloria Felix's ode to seasonal-rustic cuisine. More of a house than a restaurant, the small, barely-lit space seems to quietly declare that bigger isn't always better. The panko-fried shrimp tacos--topped with spicy aioli and fennel slaw, wrapped in jicama "tortillas"--are worth the trip alone despite their $14 price tag. And in this economy, that's saying a lot.

10850 W Pico Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90064 (map)

When you're in the company of Chick-Fil-A, Panda Express and Sbarro Pizza--the unholy trinity of mall food--it's not hard to exceed expectations. But you should understand that this dining gem inside the Westside Pavilion was given no affirmative action. In fact, you could say it had to impress all the more to shed its pedestrian stigma. And shed it does. Chef Warren Schwartz has crafted a seasonal, reasonable and accessible menu that is consistently satisfying. From the grilled three-cheese to the fresh catch of the day, you're sure to find that perfect something. We've yet to find a more exciting hummus. (Yes, hummus.)

8284 Melrose Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90046 (map)

The paint was still drying at this glossy temple to haute Chinese cuisine in October 2009, but the already-famed eatery didn't need the entire year to make a splash. (There are outposts in New York, Miami and Mexico City.) Luring L.A.'s spendy and trendy set with chef/owner Philippe Chow's flair for dim sum and then some, signatures like the delicately fragrant seabass (offered two ways--the garlic version is a singular experience) and nine seasons spicy prawns are famous for a reason. As for those pan-fried veggie dumplings that aren't on the menu, just ask Costin and he'll no doubt hook you up. After all, what's good enough for Sir Paul McCartney should certainly work for the rest of us.

8401 Sunset Blvd, West Hollywood, CA 90069 (map)

The name might not be the easiest to figure out, but this shiny, sprawling restaurant inside the Andaz Hotel pays homage to the Riot House, that notorious '70s rock-and-roll drinking den. That said, you won't find much Sunset Strip decadence here. French-trained chef Sebastien Archambault's market-to-table menu reflects his roots of Southwestern France combined with the abundance of local ingredients. In other words: Think global, eat local.

259 Hampton Dr., Venice, CA 90291 (map)

This is the little engine that could. L.A.'s best-kept secret. Owner and chef Sassan Rostamian (Sass for short, pronounced "Sauce") heads to the local farmers' market four times a week and is always around, greeting and serving the guests himself. The cafe may be the size of a studio apartment (the sidewalk seating doubles its mass), but that's part of its charm. The food is ridiculously affordable and always satisfying. We dare anyone to find a more delicious turkey meatloaf. Best of all, most entrees are priced at $11 and come with your choice of two enormous sides.

11640 San Vicente Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90049 (map)

Everyone in L.A. has a favorite sushi place. It's a prerequisite for being a true Angeleno. And this is our favorite to open in 2009. Part of chef Kazunori Nozawa's diffusion line (he's not in the kitchen--his son is--but he still oversees the menu and picks every piece of fish), SugarFish offers a full omakase experience along with those signature crispy-nori hand rolls (eat them as soon as they arrive at your table or they'll melt!) and impressive selection of uber-fresh fish atop warm rice. Only here, you get it all for about half the cost of what you'd pay at the original (and far less handsome) Valley location.

538 Palisades Dr, Pacific Palisades, CA 90272 (map)

If you haven't been to Taste on Melrose, chances are you've at least heard of it--and that famous grilled romaine salad. But in early 2009, the beloved NorCal-style bistro set its sights on the sleepy oceanside town of Pacific Palisades. Set off the beaten path just north of Sunset, this easygoing (and much roomier) sister location whips up the crispiest, juiciest parmesan chicken paillard you'll ever have. And a brioche bread pudding that is second only to East's croissant version.

796 Main St, Venice, CA 90291 (map)

If your plans for an Italian getaway this year got washed away along with the rest of the economy, then this charming Venice hideaway is your saving grace. Owners Paolo and Antonio (friends call him Tony--and trust us, even if you just met the guy you're his friend) know how to make everyone who walks through the rustic door of this canary-yellow, two-story converted house feel like family. The menu is pretty meat-heavy (enough with the quail and rabbit!) but even so, the tiny space is a romantic haven where you can enjoy other specialties like perfectly al dente homemade pasta and sublime semifreddo.

9343 Culver Blvd, Culver City, CA 90232 (map)

That a macrobiotic and vegan cafe would make its way to this list says a whole lot, especially considering we don't adhere to such dietary restrictions. But this place has figured out a way to make even the most omnivorous palate forget that no refined sugars, eggs, dairy, red meat or poultry are on the plate. Thankfully, the macro-aspect allows for fish, and that's really where the menu shines. Sushi rolls like the spicy shrimp avocado and spicy tuna burst with flavor. And that $7 salmon filet? Better than most you'll find at some fancy joint--and a heck of a lot cheaper, too.

321 N Robertson Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90048 (map)

After a four-month multimillion-dollar rehaul in mid-2009, this famed caviar mecca resurfaced with far more than just a cosmetic update. The restaurant is indeed new, with an irresistible sidewalk cafe, an immaculate indoor dining space and a splendid boutique gleaming with display cases of caviar and chocolates. But as a sign of the times, the brand opted for a refreshingly down-to-earth (yet no less special) approach with chef Benjamin Bailly's artfully presented dishes for breakfast, lunch and dinner. The wild mushroom capuccino is a frothy sensation while the melt-in-your-mouth Tzar-cut salmon trio is the best $26 you'll spend.