Contributor

Citysearch

In Short – Gaudy decor recalls the Mexican kitsch institution El Cholo, but this is the real deal: festively costumed waitresses and roving mariachis who, for small tips, engage in four-part harmonies. Homemade tortillas and queso fundido--molten cheeses with additions like chipotle peppers or crumbled chorizo--whet the appetite for camarones Costa Azul (bacon-wrapped, cheese-stuffed shrimp), and molcajete azteca, a bowlful of panela cheese, cactus and any combination of grilled steak, chicken or shrimp, all in tomato-chili salsa. Flan follows for dessert. –