A.O.C.

Martha Burr

Citysearch

The Scene
This chic dining room is all about subdued modern stylings in beige and white--the action peaks at the bustling wine bar, where a handsome Hollywood crowd flirts and buzzes. Those seeking refuge from the scene can seek out the charming starlit patio upstairs.

The Food
The menu is about great wine--and a landscape of Mediterranean small plates to pair with it. Servers recommend two to three dishes per person, and will adeptly pair them with some 50 wines by the glass. A list of dreamy European cheeses range from Sardinian goat to Corsican sheep; the charcuterie bar shaves tender, moist prosciutto and fra'mani salumi. A culinary journey begins with popular bacon-wrapped roasted dates. Perfectly fried oysters arrive crispy outside, creamy inside, offset with tangy celeriac remoulade. Standouts include halibut on a bed of gorgeously roasted peaches with yogurt and pistachio, meltingly tender squid over black rice bathed in bold saffron aioli, and woodsy chanterelles with gnocchi.

Hits: A huge selection of top wines by the glass and first-rate cheese, charcuterie and small plates makes dining casual yet fun and adventuresome.

Misses: Weekends are crowded, so there may be a wait to sit at the wildly popular wine bar. When it's this busy, it's more difficult to sample wines by the glass.