Cut

Tara Lis

Citysearch

The Scene
Awash in his trademark white color scheme, architect Richard Meier (Getty Center) eschews both the dim lighting and dark-leather booths of traditional steakhouses, and the whimsical designs of L.A.'s more recent insurgence. There's nary an antler chandelier in sight. Industry honchos, their arm candy, and overwhelmed hotel guests lounge in middle-of-the-room booths or stylish swivel chairs. Stellar service is synchronized, polite and polished.

The Food
Wolfgang Puck proffers the kind of decadent protein-heavy appetizers, red meat mains and stiff martinis that four-picture deals should be made over. Imaginative bone marrow flan is meltingly rich, and crispy pork belly exudes just a hint of maple. For entrees, 21-day-aged rib eye is supple, but pales next to delicately charred, perfectly pink Nebraskan sirloin--the extra two weeks of aging serves it well. The real scene stealer is a tender rotisserie duckling for two, its meadow-y lavender marrying sweet honey reduction. Comparably light mille feuille with McGrath strawberries is a refreshing ending.