Hokusai

Contributor

Citysearch

The Scene
This sleek deco building opens into a modern space set with white-linen tablecloths and masses of roses and orchids lining the high wraparound windows. A gleaming open kitchen is offset by artsy Japanese touches like giant blurred photos of autumn trees and nature. A busy industry lunch crowd lends afternoon energy, while evening locals set a casual, refined atmosphere, punctuated by cool world-beat jazz.

The Food
With chef and owners sporting Matsuhisa/Sushi Roku pedigrees, there's no mystery to the beautifully presented sushi and Japanese-French food. The hamachi is a knockout--yellowtail slices dotted with fresh chile and yuzu oil. Daily sashimi specials straight from Japan, like premium mackeral, are a must. One off-menu specialty is tempura-fried uni wrapped in fresh shiso, although other fusion items like the bland truffled lobster can be uneven. The true destination dish is Kobe cheek stew--a mouth-melting experience of tender beef brewed in a red wine veal reduction.