All' Angelo
Los Angeles, CA 90046
Phone: (323) 933-9540
- Price:
- $$$
- Cross Street:
- La Brea Avenue
- Specialties:
- Wine Bar
- Hours:
- Mon-Fri 12pm-2:30pm, 6pm-11pm, Sat 6pm-11pm
Editorial Review for All' Angelo – by Mar Yvette
The Scene
Blink and you might miss this Italian alcove hidden among the industrial storefronts along this coarse stretch of Melrose. Reminiscent of a low-key New York City restaurant, the small space--anchored by blond wood beams and chocolate brown carpet--softly glows with tiny candlelit tables in white linens. On any given night, owner Stefano Ongaro (who got his chops as maitre d' at Valentino and later as wine consultant at Enoteca Drago) will greet you, making sure you feel as though you've just walked into your long-lost Italian cousin's cucina. The mostly mature crowd keeps the din to a minimum, while servers, dressed in white shirts and black ties, dutifully keep the pace.
The Food
One look at the restored 1921 Berkel meat slicer near the kitchen and it becomes clear that tradition is central to the menu's regional dishes. Order the daily salami plate and watch chef Mirko Paderno (Valentino, Dolce) crank the vintage piece of machinery to shave paper-thin slices of meat, airily piled on a wood block alongside proscuitto and serrano ham. Soft pillows of housemade pasta--dressed in herbaceous marinara sauce--are satisfying enough for a main course, while entrees range from roasted quail with sauteed mushrooms to sea bream in white wine sauce. For dessert, do not miss out on the lemon polenta, a pudding-like creation of caramelized Meyer lemon sauce and candied citrus peel that is truly out of this world.
Hits: Thin is in--the nearly transluscent meat slices from the Berkel melt in your mouth, and the lemon polenta dessert alone is worth a visit.
Misses: Prices can get pretty high and the counter bar at the back can get pretty cramped.
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Insider Tips
Know Before You GoThe charming four-seat bar at the back of the restaurant is a lively place for single diners and walk-ins.
What to DrinkOngaro travels to Italy to handpick the special Italian wines that dominate his list (which is literally a book) of some 400 labels. Pairings are available, and there's 25 available by the glass.
Fun FactCured meat aficionados will appreciate the antique 1921 Berkel meat slicer, which adds ornamentation to the dining room and cuts meats with a system of pulleys and steel slicers to maintain moisture.
User Reviews for All' Angelo
09/29/2008 Posted by stocker77
Really great, really authentic food. Service was lovely will go back. The prosciutto plate is out of this world
Pros: Great food
Cons: a little pricey
08/23/2008 Posted by cultured1
All' Angelo is truly a gem hidden amongst the chaos on Melrose Ave. The owner Stephano warmly greets every guest and promptly seats them. I recommend the classic Prosecco to start your night of true authenticity! The Chichetti menu is a must. The mushroom tortellini and cauliflower timbale are amazing, the trippe is sooo good it was voted the Best in Los Angeles! The servers are very active and concerned, and the wine list is out of this world! To end the night, after much indecisiveness, I ordered the panna cotta with Port sauce which was light, but also very rich tasting and delicious. There was a recent addition of a prosecco/champagne lounge that is wonderful to sit at when you have arrived first in your party. The lounge menu offers a delightfully crispy fritto misto and big eyed tuna tartar dish that I highly reccommend. Needless to say, I will be returning to this restaurant frequently.
Pros: food & wine, service, atmosphere, etc.
Cons: NONE
0 out of 1 people found this review helpful
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